THERE is a modern movement in the latest hair styles (literally and figuratively). It allows the hair to ripple with the rhythm of walking, the action of talking. A sudden gesture or a quick laugh is accompanied by a staccato movement of the hair. This is the young look- the lithe, quick movements of youth transferred to hair. At the opposite extreme is the old look, hairdos that are static, set, passive, never out of place.
Tight ringlets, washboard waves, sausage curls-anything held in place with a pin-are some examples of the old look in hairdos. Youth is unpredictable and full of surprises; maturity is reliable, stable, settled. Young hair bounces, flurries or flows; hair with the old look never moves. Today the trend in hair styling is all toward freedom in motion, or what I call my mobiles.
THE ORIGIN OF MOBILES
The elements of good design are the same in all fields, whether in automobile bodies, aeroplanes, architecture or hairdos. A long-felt admiration for the work of Frank Lloyd Wright and Alexander Calder has enabled me to see this. An ever-increasing interest in modern architecture and design has made me determined to design hairdos which have the basic concepts of good architecture: functionalism, balance and harmony with their surroundings.
One of the latest hair styles is the long mobile which can move freely but will afterwards revert almost to its original shape no matter how violent the actions. The mass of hair can be returned to place by a shake of the head and finger combing.
At the other extreme are the short mobiles. These are set in pin-curls, not to make them conform to a rigid or unchanging pattern, but merely as the means of giving them the beginning of some shape instead of allowing the hair to fall flat. Once it is given that shape it should be allowed to be free to change its pattern from day to day after the setting. This can be done by a new form of hair care which I call doodling-twisting or pulling a strand of hair to help the hairdo assume an attractive shape.
The third represents a medium mobile between the two extremes. The back section moves in a mass but less violently than the first hairdo. The tiny tendrils of hair around the face have the same delicate whisper of movement as the short mobiles. It is set with pin-curls and combed into shape to conform with the pin-curls. It takes a combination of combing and shaking into place and doodling with the fingers.
THE DANGERS OF MISUNDERSTANDING
As I have said, the modern trend is toward the free and casual in hair styling. For a certain type of woman there is a danger of misunderstanding this whole trend. This type approaches any hairdo, an upsweep, a wavy bang or whatever, with the desire for a fixed image of what it should look like.
She wants a definite pattern, a place for every hair and every hair in place. If the hair is supposed to be casual, then by Jupiter she is going to have it casual even if she has to lacquer it in place! When I designed my mobiles, this idea was the furthest from my mind.
The other possible danger lies in misunderstanding the term casual. It does not mean careless, any more than looking natural means looking as though you had just got up out of bed. For hair to look well in any hairdo, at least fifty per cent of it should look restrained; the other fifty per cent can be free.
For example, a short hairdo that fluffs around the face in wandering tendrils could be flat and neatly combed at the back.
Hair that is-or looks-completely unrestrained generally looks horrible. There must always be evidence of attention and good grooming. No matter how casual and free the hair, the hair should not look uncared for. In other words, it should be combed frequently as well as being doodled, shaken or patted into place.
These latest hair styles suit the lifestyle of the modern woman.